{"id":1632,"date":"2015-10-13T01:21:53","date_gmt":"2015-10-13T01:21:53","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/mbouchard.com\/aneleda\/?p=1632"},"modified":"2015-10-13T01:22:42","modified_gmt":"2015-10-13T01:22:42","slug":"a-cordial-of-quinces","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mbouchard.com\/aneleda\/a-cordial-of-quinces","title":{"rendered":"A Cordial of Quinces"},"content":{"rendered":"<figure style=\"width: 258px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.cesaris.lo.it\/expo\/index.php\/en\/fruit-garden\/historical-artistical-information\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/www.cesaris.lo.it\/expo\/images\/FRUTTETO\/20.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"258\" height=\"400\" \/><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Even Our Lord preferred quinces!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p class=\"p3\"><span class=\"s2\"><b><i>&#8220;There is no fruit growing in this Land that is of so many excellent uses as this, serving as well to make many dishes of meate for the table, as for banquets, and much more for the Physicall vertues&#8221;.<\/i><\/b><\/span><span class=\"s3\"><span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>&#8211; <\/span><span class=\"s2\">John Parkinson, Covent Garden based herbalist to James I, 1629*<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">The <a href=\"https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Quince\" target=\"_blank\">Quince<\/a> was a prized fruit throughout the middle ages, beloved for its fragrant golden fruit. The fruits are quite astringent and rather tough, and as such are often cooked rather than eaten raw. High in pectin, they were (and are) used similarly to pears and apples. (1) Pies, sauces, jellies, purees, and sauces were common ways to capitalize on the fruit. They were sometimes stuffed and cooked whole. The word \u201cmarmalade is from the the Portuguese word marmelo, quince, and marmelado, quince jam.\u201d (2) <\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">Quince, <b><i>Cydonia oblonga, <\/i><\/b>are in the Rosaceae family, as are apples and pears. Originating from Caucasus, the fruit may have been the golden apple which Paris gave to Aphrodite. The fruit was dedicated to her and the ancient Greeks enjoyed quince greatly.(3) When cooked, they become a beautiful wine color. <\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">Quince has been cooked with since antiquity. I love quince &#8211; it\u2019s scent is intoxicating and so I decided to make an actual intoxicant using quince: a quince cordial. Pears and apples have been used to make and flavor liquor, so it seemed only appropriate to preserve quince in this manner too.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">In period, cordials were more frequently used as a delivery method for medicine rather than for pleasure, though it\u2019s possible that beverages \u201cfor the stomack\u201d might have been served during a meal to settle the stomach between courses.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>The quince and pear pastes were often used in this manner, served at the close of a meal to help aid digestion. This recipe incorporated two Bosc pears which were too ripe to eat, but which were too fragrant to throw away. In the spirit of medieval thrift, I added them to the brew. Bosc pears are a cultivar of the European pear, <b><i>Pyrus communis<\/i><\/b>. It is believed that the Bosc pear was raised from a seed in 1807 Belgium by M. Bosc, the Director of the Paris Botanical Garden.(4)\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p6\"><span class=\"s2\"><b><i>Recipe<\/i><\/b><\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">three quince<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">two bosc pears<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">1.5 cup white sugar<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">one quart brandy (Christian Brothers) <\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">one quart water (added later)<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">White pepper, cinnamon, ginger<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">The Quince, once very ripe, were sliced roughly and put in a large jar. They were covered<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>with 1 quart of Christian Brothers brandy. Added were white pepper, cinnamon, and a \u201cthumb\u2019s width\u201d of fresh ginger. The mix was made in the winter of 2014.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Sampled that spring, the taste was very harsh and alcohol was the dominant flavor. The bottle was put away again to sit.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>When opened once more in the fall of 2015, it had mellowed and the fragrance and flavor of quince was readily apparent.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><strong>Note:<\/strong> The taste of the beverage turned out to be exceptionally mild. While it had a scent of delicate quince, it held only the slightest note of quince and a little of pear. The cinnamon and ginger were utterly lost and the white pepper could be sensed only during an inward breath at the very end of a well-tasted sip &#8211; a little burn along the sides of the tongue.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\">It was, however, marvelously drinkable and will make an excellent sipping beverage to go with a hunk of strong, hard cheese, hard sausage, honey, and fruit.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p6\"><span class=\"s2\"><b><i>Historic Plausability<\/i><\/b><\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">It was heavily influenced by the recipe for \u201c<b><i>Ratafia of Quinces<\/i><\/b>\u201d and the spices were inspired by that recipe as well. The recipe, from 1733, appears long after even Digby (1669) and after 1671\u2019s \u201cA Queens Delight\u201d cookbook on candies and cordials. The book from which it comes borrowed heavily from a 1692 volume on court cookery and confectionary. (11)<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">However, when one cuts through it, there are many medicinal recipes in period, many quince recipes (including the sauce of rosehips and quince, below), and a long history of flavoring wines and waters with sugar and fruit.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">Cordials require aqua vitae, and my preferred is brandy. Brandy was a period beverage &#8211; wine had been a trading product for centuries, and in the early 16th century a Dutch trader is credited with inventing \u201cthe way to ship more wine in the limited cargo space by removing water from the wine. Then he could add the water back to the concentrated wine at the destination port in Holland. They called it &#8220;bradwijn,&#8221; meaning &#8220;burned wine,&#8221; and later became &#8220;brandy.&#8221; (10) <\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">I used white cane sugar in the recipe which was being produced in the middle east and had been since the 12th century. In the 15th century it cost about the same as the spices imported from Asia\u2019s tropics, which were shipped across the Indian Ocean. Ginger, pepper, and cinnamon were among those spices which were sugar\u2019s equal. <\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p6\"><span class=\"s2\"><b><i>Inspirational Recipes<\/i><\/b><\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\"><b><i>Quince Marmalade<\/i><\/b>, The Good Housewife&#8217;s Jewell (England, 1596), has a recipe entitled &#8220;To make Marmelat of Quinces&#8221;. (5)<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">To make Marmelat of Quinces. You must take a pottle of Water, and foure pound of Suger, and so let them boyle together, and when they bryle, you must skimme them as cleane as you can, and you must take the whites of two or three Egges, and beate them to froth, and put the froth into the pan for to make the skum to rise then skimme it asa cleane as you can, and then take off the kettle and put in the Quinces, and let them boyle a good while, and when they boyle, you must stirre them stil, and when they be boyled you must boxe them vp.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\"><b><i>A Cordial Water of Sir Walter Raleigh<\/i><\/b> (A Queens Delight in <a href=\"https:\/\/archive.org\/details\/aqueensdelight15019gut\"><span class=\"s4\">The Art of Preserving, Conserving and Candying, <\/span><\/a>1671 by a WM *****) (6)<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">\u201cTake a gallon of Strawberries, and put them into a pint of Aqua vit\u00e6, let them stand for four or five days, strain them gently out, and sweeten the water as you please with fine Sugar; or else with perfume.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\"><b><i>Ratafia of Quinces &#8211;<\/i><\/b> quince syrup, middle eastern<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">3 quinces sliced w mandoline, 1.5cp sugar, liquid to cover the quinces<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">You must have some Quinces, and rasp them with a Grater; all being grated, you must have a Piece of strong Cloth, put in a small handful, and squeese it with all your Might, that the Juice may come from it; when all is squeesed and you have all the Juice, put it in a Preserving pan, let it take just one single Boiling, and let it cool; being cooled, measure two Quarts of Juice and two Quarts of Brandy, Measure by Measure, and clarify some Sugar; to each two Quarts, ten Ounces of Sugar, a Piece of Cinnamon, four Cloves, and three or four Grains of white Pepper whole; stop up your Jug very close, put it aside for two or three Months, put it through a Straining-bag, until it come very clear, and put it up in Bottles flopped very close.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><em><strong><span class=\"s2\">From Vincent la Chapelle, The Modern Cook (London: 1733) (7)<\/span><\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">A note on Ratafia: Original text: A ratafia was an infused alcoholic cordial water which was produced without distillation. The classic flavour was made from the kernels of apricot or cherry stones. As a result, the English sometimes called these drinks &#8216;kernel waters&#8217;. Ratafia made from peach kernels was called persico, while that from bitter almonds was known as noyeau. They all have a sweet marzipan flavour like the Italian liqueur amaretto, which is in fact a ratafia. The crushed kernels were infused in brandy or <b><i>aqua vitae<\/i><\/b> for a couple of months before being filtered out and sweetened. There is a danger in trying to replicate these drinks, because the stones of these fruits all produce a small amount of cyanide when soaked in water! Be warned. It is much safer to make quince ratafia from La Chapelle&#8217;s recipe. (7) <\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\"><b><i>A sauce of Rosehip and Quince in the cookbook of<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>Anna Wecker, 1598<\/i><\/b><\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">So that the rosehip may also serve since it has a pit and small gravel \/ you may also well give this to the sick to restore breath and liveliness \/ as well as to children \/ it is made thusly: When they become ripe \/so break them off in nice weather \/ cut them in two pieces clear the pit and the hairs from it \/ go neatly with the circumference \/ so that there is no hair therein remaining hanging \/ wash them clean and simmer in half wine and water \/ or a bit more water \/ until they are a bit softened \/ So lift them out onto a fine white cloth \/ take then sugar and the liquid wherein they were boiled \/ and mix the sugar therewith\/ and when it is half boiled off \/ so put the peels back there-in \/ let them simmer with each other\/until the sugar spins (forms a thread) \/ so remove \/ make it right \/ it should be made most like a sour cherry sauce \/ and thus prepares one this also with clear sweet grape juice \/ one mashes this together also into a sauce or mush \/ prepared with quince \/ with sugar \/ honey and sweet wine \/ [it] serves well as a sweet and cold sauce on many dishes as you have . One places it on roasts like capons. <span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>(8.)<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">(Original recipe) Von Hieffen oder Butten &#8211; Dieweil die hieffen auch denen dienen sollen so den Steinvnnd Grie? haben \/ m?gen sie auch etwan wol den kranck-en zu einem luft vnnd labung gelassen werden \/ besonders den Kindern \/ die bereit also: \u00a0Wann sie zu ihrer Zeitung kom-men \/ so brichs ab in einem sch?nem Wetter \/ schneid sie in zwey theil \/raum die Stein vnd haar herau? \/ gehe sch?n mit vmb \/ da? dir keinhaar daran bleib hangen \/ wasch sie sauber vnd seuds in halb Weinvnnd Wasser \/ oder etwa mehr Wasser \/ bi? sie ein wenig lind sind \/so heb? herau? auff ein sch?n wei? Tuch \/ nimb dann Zucker vnnddie Br?h darinnen sie gesotten \/ vnnd versam den Zucker darmit \/vnd wann er auff des halb gesotten \/ so thu die Sch?le wider dar-ein \/ la? mit einander sieden \/ bi? der Zucker spinnet \/ so behalts \/ maches recht \/ sie sollen wol wie Weichseln Br?h haben \/ vnd also bereitsman sie auch mit lauterm s?ssen Most \/ man treibts auch durch zueiner S?ltz oder Mu? \/ bereits mit Quitten \/ mit Zucker \/ honigvnnd s?ssem Wein \/ dienet wol zu s?ssem vnnd kalten Br?hlein \/an viel Essen wie du sie hast. \u00a0Man stellts zu Bratens wie Ca-pern. (9)<\/span><\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p class=\"p6\"><strong>This was paneled for the East Kingdom Brewer&#8217;s Guild at The Endewearde Hunt, October 2015.\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p class=\"p6\"><span class=\"s2\"><b><i>Sources<\/i><\/b><\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">Image1: Quince, Tacuinum Sanitatis, ca. 1400<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p8\"><span class=\"s5\">Image 2: <\/span><span class=\"s2\">Juan S\u00e1nchez Cot\u00e1n, Still Life with Quince, Cabbage, Melon, and Cucumber, c. 1602-1603<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">* http:\/\/www.historicfood.com\/Quinces%20Recipe.htm<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">1. http:\/\/blog.metmuseum.org\/cloistersgardens\/2008\/10\/27\/the-golden-quince\/<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">\u201cClosely related to apples and pears, quince (Cydonia oblonga) is a distinct species whose fruits have an irregular shape, a wooly white coat when green, a bright golden color when ripe, and a delicious perfume all their own. (Quince is the sole member of the genus Cydonia; flowering quince (Chaenomeles japonica), a shrub grown for its coral-pink flowers, does bear a small quince-like fruit, but is another species altogether.)<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">Quinces are said to ripen early and well enough to be eaten out of hand in warmer climates, but in northern Europe and here in the United States, they are still quite hard, dry, and astringent when they finally begin to grow golden and aromatic in the second half of October. For this reason, quinces are usually eaten cooked, not raw. Quinces have a lot of pectin, and make excellent jams and jellies. They can also be made into quince paste (membrillo in Spanish, cotognata in Italian, cotignac in French). In the Middle Ages, this stiff conserve was pressed into boxes or fancy forms, sliced, and eaten with the fingers as part of the dessert course. (Alan Davison, The Oxford Companion to Food, 1999). Nowadays quince paste is often served as an accompaniment to cheese. While the sweetened fruit may be baked in pies and tarts, there are also many savory recipes that combine quince with poultry and with meat.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">Quince appears in a famous ninth-century edict, the Capitulare\u00a0de villis, in which the emperor Charlemagne decreed which plants were to be grown on the imperial estates. It is one of several kinds of fruit trees shown growing in the orchard-cemetery of the monastery on the ninth-century plan of St.Gall\u2014a very beautiful way of carrying out the idea that the monks would enter Paradise when they died.<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">Native to the Caucasus, quince was widely distributed throughout the Mediterranean in antiquity. The modern name of the genus comes from the ancient city of Cydonia (modern-day Khania) in Crete, where quince trees grew in abundance. The identification of the quince with the golden apples of the <\/span><span class=\"s6\">Hesperides<\/span><span class=\"s2\"> was made in antiquity by the Greek botanist Theophrastus. The quince was also identified with the golden apple awarded to Aphrodite in the <\/span><span class=\"s6\">Judgment of Paris<\/span><span class=\"s2\">, and was sacred to the goddess of love and fertility. According to the ancient historian Plutarch, the Athenian lawgiver Solon directed that a bride should nibble at a quince before entering the nuptial chamber, a symbolism that was recreated in the Renaissance. (Mirella D\u2019Ancona Levi, The Botanical Garden of the Renaissance, 1977.)<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">Quince has a long history of medicinal use. The ancient Greek herbalist <\/span><span class=\"s6\">Dioscorides<\/span><span class=\"s2\">, whose De Materia Medica was influential throughout the Middle Ages, recommended the fruit as a diuretic, a styptic, and an astringent; it was also used to counteract dysentery and as a poultice for inflamed breasts. (Frank Anderson, German Herbals through 1500, 1984.) The mucilage from the seed coats has humectant and emollient properties and is used today in natural cosmetics.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">\u2014Deirdre Larkin &#8211; The Cloisters, Metropolitan Museum of Art, NYC<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">2. http:\/\/italophiles.com\/quince.htm<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">3. http:\/\/www.coquinaria.nl\/english\/recipes\/04.5histrecept.htm<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">4. http:\/\/www.specialtyproduce.com\/produce\/Bosc_Pears_334.php#sthash.ZMTiGNjy.dpuf<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">5. http:\/\/quod.lib.umich.edu\/e\/eebo\/A19957.0001.001\/1:3.99?rgn=div2;view=fulltext<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">6. https:\/\/archive.org\/details\/aqueensdelight15019gut<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">7. http:\/\/www.historicfood.com\/Quinces%20Recipe.htm<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">8.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>http:\/\/www.florilegium.org\/?http%3A\/\/www.florilegium.org\/files\/PLANTS\/rose-hips-msg.html <\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">9. https:\/\/books.google.com\/books?id=IdZfAAAAcAAJ&amp;pg=PA261&amp;lpg=PA261&amp;dq=Von+Hieffen+oder+Butten&amp;source=bl&amp;ots=FH7aG2A7YW&amp;sig=QZVd5U6osjAosywDPaGxNuNN7bw&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0CCAQ6AEwAGoVChMIls-3xf62yAIVzHk-Ch2L-wCw#v=onepage&amp;q=Von%20Hieffen%20oder%20Butten&amp;f=false<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">10. http:\/\/www.cocktailtimes.com\/history\/brandy\/<\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p5\"><span class=\"s2\">11. https:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Vincent_La_Chapelle<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>&#8220;There is no fruit growing in this Land that is of so many excellent uses as this, serving as well to make many dishes of meate for the table, as for banquets, and much more for the Physicall vertues&#8221;.\u00a0 &#8211; John Parkinson, Covent Garden based herbalist to James I, 1629* The Quince was a prized &hellip; <\/p>\n<p class=\"link-more\"><a href=\"https:\/\/mbouchard.com\/aneleda\/a-cordial-of-quinces\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading<span class=\"screen-reader-text\"> &#8220;A Cordial of Quinces&#8221;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[251],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1632","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-brewing"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v24.2 - 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